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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.